BlairDrummond to Bunree

Luminous gloves had to come out. All my others were wet through

BlairDrummond Campsite is situated in the walled garden of BlairDrummond house, former home of Lord Kames from as far back as 1701. It is surrounded by beautiful gardens and Scotland's only Safari Park. Whilst walking Monty in the gardens we noticed some chimpanzees in a specially constructed enclosure. It was basically a big island in the middle of the boating lake. It was thickly wooded and the chimps looked very comfortable in their surroundings. A big male was sitting at the top of a huge oak tree surveying his kingdom. He had a big red protruding bottom, so I remarked to Rosemary that I knew how he felt. You could hear the Lions roaring during the night. I woke thinking it was Rosemary snoring. It certainly kept Monty awake (the Lions, not Rosemary's snoring - I am so dead for that)

BlairDrummond Gardens 

We woke to a cool, overcast but thankfully rain-free morning. The daily ritual of walking Monty was always as a bit of a zombified lurch around the camper looking for something suitable to wear. I was usually half asleep craving at least another hour of boboland. The walk with Moo was actually a really good way of getting myself awake and my aching joints in some form of order. I headed through the gardens to where I saw the chimps the evening before. Sure enough there was 'Big red bum' at the top of the tree. I know it wasn't, but by 'eck it looked sore. I thought about donating some cycling shorts and Cavillon cream for him.

It was going to be a long and hard ride. The route would take me through Glen Ogle to Crianlarich and Tyndrum over Rannoch moor and through Glen Coe before dropping down into Ballahulish towards Fort William. I have driven this route a number of times in a car and also on a motorbike. It is one of my favourite roads in Britain. The scenery is simply stunning and very imposing. On a bicycle is was going to be much tougher.

Road to Callender

My legs were tired as I set off heading for Doune. The air was fresh and the grey clouds seemed less threatening than on the previous day. I started really steadily, spinning a lowish gear trying to loosen my legs off. I took the back road that led through some beautiful undulating countryside towards Callender. It was mid May, snow was still picking out mountains looming in the distance. I was finally in the Highlands.

Callender was a small and prosperous looking town with Victorian hotels hewn from the local grey stone. It lies on the banks of the river Teith and is known as the gateway to the Highlands. Tourists were following Tartan clad guides up and down the high street as I cycled by. I liked Callender.

The A84 started to climb as I left Callender. It wasn't steep, just a slow grind into the hills. There was no real letting up and I found it tough. I passed Loch Lubnaig to my left with thick forests of pine on my right. It was quite beautiful. I don't know if its just me but I find trees very comforting. I get a real feeling of calm and serenity when cycling through trees.

I was heading for Lochearnhead where I would meet Rosemary for a stop and I was grateful to see the familiar site of our lovely old Hymer parked up overlooking the Loch. Rosemary had already taken Moo for a walk and had started preparing bacon butties. She was visibly more relaxed now we were in the Highlands. There was really only one road to follow and carefully planned routes to rendezvous were no longer necessary. We could simply work out the distance I wanted to ride to the next stop and Rosemary would just head off up the road and wait for me there.

I set off again and picked up the A85 which turned from due north and headed west. I noticed straight away that for the first time in nearly the entire ride that I had the wind behind me. I felt fantastic!  As I approached Glen Ogle I heard above a very distinctive call. Looking up I saw what looked like two eagles* circling overhead. They were magnificent birds, much bigger than buzzards. I felt very privileged.

This was the high point of my ride. It was as though ten men were pedalling for me.  My lungs were sucking in huge gulps of the cool mountain air as I mashed on the pedals. I was flying. I have never felt so good on a bike before. My speedo was reading thirty two miles an hour and I wasn't going down hill. I was grinning like a Cheshire cat as I sped along. What the hell had Rosemary put in my lunch?  Out of nowhere an RAF Typhoon thundered by on a low level run through the mountains.  I nearly jumped out of my skin. It skimmed the the tree line to my left then climbed away on full afterburners, diamonds dancing in its flaming engines. The torchered air on the wings formed huge vortices as it headed straight for the ceiling. I wasn't the only one having fun in Glen Ogle. It was a truly awesome site and I was loving the whole experience.

Rosemary finally found me at Tyndrum

I must have eaten up twenty five miles when my phone went. It was Rosemary. "Where on earth are you" "Just riding along" I replied. "Well I've been driving for ages and I haven't seen you". She'd set off after me and had expected to pass me after three or four miles. "I was worried you were in a ditch" "I went five, ten, fifteen, twenty miles and you weren't on the road". She had called Neil to check on 'Find my friends' to see where I was. It turned out I was still five miles ahead of her. I carried on through Crianlarich at full bore and in the end I met Rosemary as I approached Tyndrum, where we had arranged to meet.

It had been, by quite some distance the best riding I have ever experienced. I don't know what came over me.
* we spoke with my Friend Neil Tuckwell in Inverness who is a keen amateur ornithologist and he confirmed they would have been eagles

By 'eck it's getting hilly round here

Is that Lance Armstrong 

Nope, its just dopey old me

From Tyndrum I picked up the A82 and headed for Glen Coe. This was the Highlands proper as I climbed into Argyle and Bute. The mountains rose up on both sides and the moody sky looked ominous. I still felt great as I passed through Bridge of Orcy. I had arranged to meet Rosemary at the famous view point where the road climbs steeply onto Rannoch Moor. I could see the Hymer in the distance way above. The road does a horseshoe and rises sharply up the long climb. I decided to get out of the saddle and 'monster it' all the way to Rosemary. It was my Alp 'D'uez and I had Lance Armstrong in my pocket. Whatever I had been on that day I want some more.

Rannoch Moor

Glen Coe - You can just see the rain between the mountains in the middle of the shot

A hauntingly beautiful place

It started to rain! "that's all I need" I thought to myself. Rannoch moor is a pretty bleak place at the best of times. Its a vast treeless windswept plateau, strewn with small lochs and drainage courses. It looks 'otherworldly' for want of a better description. In the distance I could see the mountains of Glen Coe and my heart missed a beat. If you have ever driven through Glen Coe you will understand. The sheer majesty of the scenery stirs your soul. With ghosts of Clansmen peering down from the lonely crags, it is quite intimidating and quite beautiful at the same time. The rain started to come down like stair rods. Luckily Rosemary had seen the rain ahead and stopped just up the road. I jumped in the camper just as it went torrential. Wow! that was good timing. We sat it out for half an hour until it passed over. We had a quick hug then I hopped out and Rosemary drove off for the campsite near Ballahulish. I was at the top of the pass and I could see her wind her way down the steep road for miles.

I was glad I had changed my brake pads at Blair Drummond. It was very wet and the lorries and buses gave no quarter as they thundered by. The road spray got into my eyes and stung like hell, making the decent really quite hairy. But I loved it, I had ridden 700 miles, I was in Glen Coe riding my bicycle and I had a big smile on my face.

Bunree - overlooking Loch Linnhie 

Am I supposed to be impressed?

The next morning 

Not a bad view to wake up to?

I began to tire as I passed through Glen Coe village heading for the coast and Bunree. However it was all worth it when I saw the view we had from the campsite. We were right on the shore of Loch Linnhe. It was stunning and apparently was voted the Caravan Clubs best site. I had cycled almost 90 miles. It was my best days riding since starting at Lands End and it will stay in my memory for a long time to come.

Next up - Bunree to Inverness - From best to worst in more ways than one.